Lucca

I arrived in Lucca last night after leaving La Spezia. It's just a lovely walled city and I had been here three years ago with my friend Melody. We stayed outside the walls but this time I am staying just in side the St. Peter's entry in a small B&B called Le Violetta. The owner Anna wasn't there but her husband or friend was and he carried my luggage up the two flights and showed me around. It's like staying in a person's apartment and it's great. I have to share a bathroom but the guest in room number 4 wasn't there so it worked out fine. And Anna, this morning made me breakfast of a cake she had baked herself. It was great and reminded me of Zizi's cooking but I don't think I'll be getting any homemade ravioli's like my aunt would have had for me this afternoon if I where home in Boston.

But the apartment is huge and holds several guests including some with private baths and the floors especially are incredible brown, intricate pattern in the terrazzo floor which I'm sure dates back at least 70 years. And I must add this place is spotless like every good Italian women's home. These floors look like they've never been walked on. I think what a nice idea to open a B&B in your apartment building especially when you have so much room. This place is huge, it's one half of a floor from what I can see and I love staying in an apartment not a hotel room, it makes you feel more part of the city and not just a visitor.

I took a long walk along the top of the think wall that protected the city for centuries from invaders. Even cars can drive over this but you mostly see people walking, bicycles and even some joggers.  I was up there about at 9:25 this morning and already it was packed with people and so nice to see everyone out and about getting the fresh air.  It's a gorgeous sunny day with a bit of a brisk breeze, but so lovely.

Lots of senior citizens on tour out with their rented bicycles. They are really putting me to shame,  I should be walking much faster.

And on this walk way which is about tow stories above ground there is a small opera house, yes, amazing, right! And the most adorable police station you could imagine and inside a few men just relaxing on a sofa and chatting it up. I love small town living even the police are relaxed.

I had a nice tourist take a picture of me typing this blog at a table and bench on the top of the wall so you could see how great it is to even do some work here, if you can call blogging work.

I walked and walked and walked through the town, stopped in at St. Martino's Cathedral, another really beautiful church and the stain glass windows on one side cast these amazing colorful highlights on the other and in one place there was a huge painting and the light shone directly on this lovely little angel in the corner. It's one of those wonderful moments when nature illuminates man made art perfectly.

I then rented a bicycle for an hour for only 3.00 euros and it was incredible. It took me about 10 minutes to get used to riding after years and years of not, but once I got going there was no stopping me. I even ventured off the top of the wall park and on to the city center lanes and it was just fun. I almost hit a few people but fortunately I missed them all by a few inches. I met this nice couple from near Manchester in England on the ride and they kindly took my picture and we had an incredible five minute talk about nature and life and it got so interesting but I had to head on my way as the bike needed to be back. Amazing you can just meet people anywhere. I forgot until now as I'm typing the people I met from Australia at the ferry stop in I think it was Manarola in Cinque Terra. When they found out I was from New York the wife just spontaneously told me about their trip to New York and how they saw Rod Stewart and when she pointed to him as he got out of his car to show her husband Rod Stewart ducked like she was going to shoot him. Now you can imagine I was a little confused for a few seconds thinking why would her finger pointing to him like that cause the singer to have such an odd reaction. Well just as I was about to board the boat (they were staying behind for the boat going in the other direction) she says "well it was right after John Lennon was shot so I guess he was jumpy" or something like that so I just smiled. I mean you don't expect people to tell you a story from decades ago like it just happened last month. But she was so animated and excited to tell her story so in a way it was kind of sweet - strange, but sweet.

After returning the bike I took another long walk and went to where Melody and I stayed 3 years ago and found the Lione Hotel and the laundromat where I did a wash and then had pizza at a local place.

It was such a nice day and I even managed to get a few hours of work in and submitted myself for a housesitting job in Florence for 3 to 6 months staring in November for two kitties. So we'll see, but I just keep looking and hopefully something fabulous will come up.

Enjoy the random pictures of Lucca. I didn't take many because you can refer back to my blog from 2008 for details on the city and pictures of all the hot spots. For today I just took pictures of things that looked interesting.

And I took a picture of the yummy ice cream treats I had before heading to the B&B and bed. It's a gelato place that makes these little creations from gelato with fruit and nuts. I had to take a picture because they were so pretty as well as delicious and it's a place off the beaten path that Melody and I found during that visit 3 years ago. 

Tomorrow is Saturday so I'm going to venture to the beach I hope in Viareggio. We'll see, it's all such a fluid process, this traveling.

History on Lucca (found on Ask.com)

Tuscany was originally inhabited by tribes of Ligurians and by the Etruscans. When the Romans arrived they allied themselves with the Etruscans against the Ligurians who fled into the Apuane mountains. The origins of Lucca date back to 180 B.C. Before founding a city the Romans would hold sacrificial ceremonies which began with the digging of the perimeter of the city. After which, three animals (a bull, a sheep and a pig) were sacrificed to the gods Jupiter, Minerva, and Giunone whose temple was erected inside the city walls. Within and beyond the boundary of the city the land was divided up into "centurie". By means of the "centurie" the Romans would plot the circuit of the walls after which public buildings were erected and streets were traced along orthogonal axes. The main streets of the city were called the "cardo maximo" which ran in a north-southerly direction corresponding to the modern Via Fillungo, and the "decumano maximo" corresponding to the modern Via S. Croce, which ran in a east-westerly direction.
The nucleus of the city was the forum which was placed at the junction of these two main roads and which corresponds to the present-day Piazza S. Michele, still referred to as S. Michele in Foro (St. Michael in Forum). The circuit of the walls was irregular owing to frequent changes in the course of the river Auserculus, (the Auserculus or Ozieri was in ancient times the main river, while the present-day Serchio was merely a minor branch).
The first span of the walls built in the second century B.C. was of a rectangular shape approximately 8 to 9 metres high, built "ad opus quadratus" with blocks of travertino rock which came from local quarries. The area of the city was 39 hectares and the population was approximately 10,000; the walls were roughly 2,500 metres long, corresponding to the modern Via Mordini and Via degli Angeli (Sommella) in the north; Via Galli Tassi, Via S. Domenico, Via Cittadella up to Corso Garibaldi in the west; Corso Garibaldi in the south; and in the east, Via dell’Angelo Custode and Via della Rosa.
The city had four gates along the circuit of the walls: the "decumanus" linking the east gate of S. Gervasio and the west gate of S. Donato; and The "cardo", linking the north gate of S. Frediano and the south gate of S. Pietro. In the second century A.D. the amphitheatre was erected outside the walls while the theatre was built inside the town walls. The geographical position of the city is noteworthy. Situated at the base of the Tuscan Appennines in the midst of a well-watered, fertile plain, close to the Mediterranean Sea. Lucca has always been an important thoroughfare owing to its location. The Via Clodia was built around 155 B.C. while the Via Emilia was built in 109 B.C.. The Via Cassia, linking Rome and Florence, went on to Pistoia from which one could then proceed to Bologna or turn towards Lucca. During the Municipium the most important communication routes were: Lucca-Pisa and Lucca-Luni (Camaiore, Pietrasanta), the latter, either joined Via Emilia Scaura heading towards Luni or, more likely, followed the present-day Via Sarzanese and turned left just after the S. Pietro bridge, which met up with the Aurelia and took you to Massaciuccoli. Here in Massaciuccoli, are numerous Roman villas and the remains of the Roman thermal baths.
The remains of Roman thermal baths have been found in the heart of Lucca, in the subterranean section of the Basilica of S. Giovanni and S. Reparata.

La Spezia & Cinque Terra, Italy - Day 1 & 2

What a wonderful day. Although it was mostly overcast it was the perfect temperature between warm and cool for a day of walking through small seaside towns and up winding walking paths.  I took the train from Genoa to La Spezia a medium sized seaside town and the place where you change to get the local train that takes you to the first stop in the five towns that make up Cinque Terra called Riomaggiore although I didn't realize it was the first stop because it came so quickly so I got off at the next which was Manarola. There I walked around the town and just enjoyed the incredible views and the sherbet colored buildings that go up the mountain from the marina.  After having a slice of pizza for lunch I got on the ferry boat that takes you to the other towns and ended up in the last one Monterrosso which is really lovely and larger than the others at least length wise because you have two beaches. I the beaches were dark sand/rocks and the water was so crystal clear and a beautiful blue/green. I walked along the water and just enjoyed the incredible breeze and the sun that had peeked out from behind the clouds by then.  After and hour or so there I took the train back toward le Spezia and got off at Vernazza, a very small town but still lovely and they had posters everywhere with pictures from a flood they had last year on my birthday that seemed to do so much damage. The pictures showed so much destruction but the town itself looks great now. They really must have worked so hard to get it back to such a beautiful condition. And from there I took the train to the next town, Corniglia which is not accessible by ferry or water for that matter because you have to climb over 220 steps to get to it. Needless to say I was exhausted by the time I reached the top but fortunately the German women in front of me seemed just as tired so I didn't feel bad that the young 20-something backpackers made it up there so quickly.  It's a charming, very small mountain town and I visited the small church and walked to the end where there was an overlook that is simply incredible with views of two of the other Cinque Terra towns as well a breathtaking panorama of the ocean.  My favorite picture of the day is from this town. On the ledge of the cliff there was this cat taking a nap and just enjoying the little bit of sun. I was afraid he'd fall off but he seemed pretty snug and also there was a small garden ledge below him about 40 feet or so before the real cliffs began so I guess he knew what he was doing. And he got lots of attention because everyone took his picture with the late afternoon sun in the background.

Cinque Terra pretty much lived up to my expectations and I was so amazed all the tourists that navagated these hills with strollers and little babies in tow. There were even a few with small dogs. It's really a gorgeous place to visit and well worth the trip!  I also met some great people. A couple from British Columbia who have been living in London for two years because of the husbands work and they were so kind and gave me their business card and said if I’m in England and need something I should call. So sweet and her son is off traveling Europe on his own right now as well so I think she understands how much work it is to go from place to place. And I also met an adorable young couple from Australia who are doing a 4 month travel around Europe. The girl just graduated from college so this is her celebration trip and her boyfriend owns his own surfboard business and it’s winter in Australia so he just closed his business and took off for the few months. He has a friend he’s going to contact for me who did the same thing I did, just came to Europe without a job, and she found a housesitting thing and managed to stay her for months. He’s going to email any information she has on how best to do it.  And then I met this sweet lady from La Spezia on the train named Antonia and she helped me find the luggage room at the station and then walked me down to where I would get the ferry to go to Cinque Terra. She was so sweet and her husband and their 7 year old son were waiting for them at home with lunch. They own a leather shop in Le Spezia and make belts and such. You meet so many nice people when you travel like this and I’m amazed at how many Australian’s are here right now. It’s the end of their winter so I guess they all make the trip over before their spring. And so many people traveling with babies and children, I’m amazed at how they just drag them around, up and down these hills in strollers and pouch like carriers.  These European families don’t let anything stop them from seeing the other countries but it’s understandable they make it so easy to get around the EU now.

I've included below a little information I found on the internet because I really didn't have much more to add on my daily activities but I have lots of pictures to fill up this page. Enjoy!

La Spezia is identified with the Italian Navy from the last century when Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, established the Sardinian Military base in the town and a few years later, in 1861, when the Arsenal was built. La Spezia became then a very important Military base as testified from the relocation of the Naval Museum in 1870 from Genoa to La Spezia. This is one of the many museums you can visit in town. Not to be missed is the Lia Museum (downtown in the old Via Prione) and the archeological collections preserved in the San Giorgio castle from where you can also enjoy a panoramic view of the town. It’s recommended that you try the local dish “Mes-ciua”, a cereal soup.

The Cinque Terre  is a rugged portion of coast on the Italian Riviera. It is in the Liguria region of Italy, to the west of the city of La Spezia. "The Five Lands" is composed of five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The coastline, the five villages, and the surrounding hillsides are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Over the centuries, people have carefully built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the sea. Part of its charm is the lack of visible corporate development. Paths, trains and boats connect the villages, and cars cannot reach them from the outside. The Cinque Terre area is a very popular tourist destination. The villages of the Cinque Terre were severely affected by torrential rains which caused floods and mudslides on October 25, 2011. Nine people have been confirmed killed by the floods, and damage to the villages, particularly Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare, was extensive.

Riomaggiore - A jewel of the Cinque Terre, this village was founded at the end of the XII century. The name derives from “Rivus Mayor”, the biggest of the two streams which flow across the village. Along the charming road down to the “Marina” you will find the typical coloured houses, which seem to cling to one another, with the boat dock in the middle. These are called “case torri” (tower houses). From the little beach of Fossola you can reach the gardens of Torre Guardiola along a pathway rich in extraordinary botanic and naturalistic beauties. Another unforgettable itinerary is the “Via dell’Amore”, going from Riomaggiore to Manarola along the coast.

Manarola - Its name almost certainly derives from “Manium Arula” (dead souls temple). The harbour is formed by a terraced promenade with boats hanging at the foot of a handful of coloured houses. Above on the hills you’ll find the terraces with vines growing on them… these are the vines of the “Cinque Terre”, a dry white wine, rough like the sea. On the main square there is the parish church of Saint Laurence (1338), in front of the bell tower once used as a watchtower (XIV century). During Christmas time the village is illuminated by the lights of the unique nativity scene created by a local resident, Mario Andreoli.

Corniglia - Cornelius, a Roman colonist, and his mother Cornelia, are the first names having some relation with Corniglia. In ancient times, the village was more extended southward, but strong slumps due to the sea have caused a number of landslides of the hill. This is now a long cliff, connected with the village by 365 steps, numbered like the days of the year. This village was built around the XI century and still preserves its charm, with beautiful stone buildings of remarkable beauty embellished by sandstone portals. From the terraced balcony overhanging the sea, at the farthest limits of the village, it is possible to admire the ancient ”valley of mills” which is now intensively cultivated. Go to the Guvano beach for a wonderful swim, and don’t miss the “Sciacchetrà” wine festival that takes place each year in May.

Vernazza - “Vulnetia” was its ancient Latin name, then “Vernaccia” and finally Vernazza. The web of “carrugi” (narrow lanes) and steep stairways converges in the main square overlooking the sea. This is the centre of the village, where stands the church dedicated to Saint Margaret of Antiochia (1318) with its foundations in the sea. On the opposite side, built on a sheer crag, you have the castle, once a strategic defense necessary to prevent the pirates’ attacks.

Monterosso - “Rubra” used to be the ancient Latin name given to this village – now a part of the territory of the “National Park of the Cinque Terre” – because of the reddish colour of the hills at sunset, or perhaps it could be the colour of the lord’s hair (Rufus) that inhabited the castle. While walking along the “carrugi” of the historical centre, you can linger for a while to drink a glass of “Sciacchetrà” dessert wine in some cellar, or go as far as the Convent of the “Capuccini” from where you can admire an incredible landscape. Descending on the opposite side, you will reach the end of the village, dominated by an impressive sculpture of Neptune (1910), known as the “Giant”.

La Spezia - is the capital of La Spezia province, in Liguria, northwest Italy, on the Golfo dei Poeti. Situated at the eastern end of the Italian Riviera, La Spezia is located on the flat plains resting between the sea and the surrounding hills. Its origins may be traced back the ancient times up to the tenth century AD, when La Spezia was a small maritime and fishing village ruled by Genoa. The village remained for centuries an important trading and naval emporium.

The 800's were one of the most important periods of La Spezia's history, thanks to the establishment of the Military Shipyard and the Mercantile Port that changed the fishing village into a modern city.

The Spezia naval yard built a number of pre dreadnaughts. including the Dandola in 1878, Andrea Doria in 1887, re Umberta in 1893, Regina Margharita in 1904 , Regina Elena in 1907 and the battleship Roma in 1908. and number of Cruisers were also built including in 1898 Carlo Alberto During the First World war a number of submarines were built aswell as the major battleships Andrea Doria and the Conte di Cavour, naval construction ceased after the war but the |naval base continued. After world war two, La Spezia was reconstructed, and again produced naval warships for the Italian navy and had six dry docks and employed over 2,500 people.

Today, La Spezia is the chief Italian naval station and arsenal and the seat of a navigation school. It is also a commercial port, with shipyards and industries producing machinery, metal products, and refined petroleum.

So all in all a beautiful few days and with the exception of swimming I pretty much did everything I wanted to. As a recommendation for anyone wanting to visit this area my best advice is stay on the main train line or in places like Le Spezia that are right there. I also recommend Viareggia and Lucca as places to stay. Viareggia has a ferry that will take you to Cinque Terra and that way you can swim and be back in your hotel to shower easily. It's just a great place to visit for all ages as well, I saw many a senior citizens climbing up those hills and lots of children like I mentioned in tow.

Oh yes, and as I finish the blog and load all the pictures I'm sure you can imagine what some of my favorites are. Of course any with that gorgeous blue/green ocean and the marinas with their incredible multicolored boats to match the multicolored hoses. And the one with the cat at sun set, how precious and perfect, that kitty was just waiting for me to get that shot. And also in that hill side Cinque Terrra town, Corniglia the picture of the older lady walking down the stairs to her home. It just reminds me so much of my aunt's, aunt La Zia. I felt like time had turned back the clocks and she and people like my grandmother and my aunt in Italy where all enjoying a summer night in their mountain town in Italy. Granted none of them but my aunt who always lived in Italy returned when they were that old but I could just imagine it. And I didn't take a picture of the group of women who were right around the corner from this lady who were just sitting outside their doors on all manners of seating just gabbing away about lots of stuff I didn't understand but sounded interesting from their expressive manners. I'm sure this is a daily ritual and a really nice one if you ask me. The kids were running up and down the cobble-stoned lanes and laughing the life just seemed so simple.

I also love the picture of my feet in the sand on the beach at Monterosso. And of course the picture of me standing on the boat was taken by the most adorable young, Italian man and was kind enough to chat with me about the countryside and he genuinely appreciated begin asked questions and was so animated in describing things like the tiered vineyards you see along Cinque Terrra's mountain side are all grapes and they make wine and also on some of the larger cliffs where there are just a smattering of houses it turns out those people got to and from home by climbing up and down about 1,000 steps. Wow, they must all be in such good shape and this young man certainly was. Oh, to be 22 again and living in Italy. Sadly I could be this boys mother, how frightening is that!!!

Oh yes, and one last note. There are kayaking rentals mom, you would love that and you can even see an intrepid kayaker in one of my pictures and for those who prefer bike riding there are lots of rentals for that as well and like every town I've visited, with maybe the exception of Milan, bike riding is the preferred mode of transportation, well after boats in places like Venice and Genoa.