We woke up at 8:00am to look out our window at the gorgeous
25
th of April Bridge which was designed by the same man who designed
the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco and was given this name in 1974 after
the Carnation Revolution which had occurred on the 25
th of April it
was formerly the Salazar Bridge. Within in moments we were under the bridge and
heading toward port. The bridge is next to the statue of Jesus that sands up on
the top of the cliff across the River Tejo from the main city center. The
statue was created and placed high above the city looking joyously down on its
beloved inhabitants as well as being in the perfect position to bless all those
who enter or exit Lisbon by sea.
It was
erected to commemorate the ending of World War II and the Portuguese surviving
the war pretty much without any involvement and in a neutral position. Below is
what was written in our Costa “Today – The Daily Programme:”
“Once we have passed Cape Saint Vincent we will continue
North toward Lisbon. At about 4:00am we
will come in sight of the lighthouse of Cape Espichel which marks the most
Southern part of the Gulf of Lisbon. At
around 6:30am we will approach on route of 047 degrees and will make an entry
in to the Rio Tego, (River Tejo), continuing the navigation inside the river
for around 8 miles. To our left the
Tower of Belem will become visible, this monument is devoted to the travels of
Christopher Columbus, shortly after we will pass under the ’25 of April’ Bridge
which stands 70 meters high and spans 1000 meters. During the passage under the bridge on our
right hand side we will be able to see a smaller reproduction of the ‘Christ
Rei’ of Rio de Janeiro, erected as thanks for Portugal missing any involvement
in the Second World War. We depart from
Lisbon at 6:30pm and will disembark the pilot near the Tower of Belem and will
continue our navigation out of the river at about 7:30pm. Once out of the Rio Tejo we will continue a
route South up to the point of Cape De Saint Vincente, and onward to our next
port of call.” All very interesting and
it pretty much happened exactly like that.
We were docked and the ship was ready to allow passengers to
disembark by 9:00am. At that point I was already upstairs for the morning walk
with Gustav which was once again cancelled since no one but me showed up. But
it worked in my favor to have gone since the adorable Gustav, who is clearly
very passionate about Lisbon, gave me a private lecture as we gazed out over
the white washed buildings with the terracotta roofs from deck 10. He told me
all the places I must go and what to do. Very sweet of him and he said no need
to have a walk today because I’d be walking at least 5 hours. It didn’t turn
out to be that much because mom and I did the hop-on hop-off tour bus for part
of the day.
There is so much to see and do in Lisbon I won’t go into all
the minute details it would just take too long. Suffice it to say that most
people would enjoy a visit here because there is something for everyone. Lots
of historical details to absorb, lots of beautiful churches to visit, so much
shopping both of the highest quality to the discount markets, fabulous
restaurants and a new marina area that is so modern and an exquisite example of
contemporary architecture and a modern urban design that puts even New York
City to shame. Whoever came up with the idea of revitalizing the Eastern
section of the city near the ports is a truly inspired person. The museums,
conference centers, apartment buildings, shopping centers as well as the mile
or so of parks and promenades to walk and enjoy the sights and sounds of this
bustling city are to be revered because it turned what must have been a
desolate place into the hip and trendy must visit area of the city. Great for
families with children of all ages and they even have a large Aquarium there
now. I’m so impressed with both the old, charming and beautiful neighborhoods
as well as the modern areas because they each have been planned with the people
in mind although it’s a town of seven hills like Rome so be sure to wear
comfortable shoes and expect to the walk down hill to be almost has hard as
going up for the cobble stone work with its intricate patterns of white and
black stone is everywhere in the city and going downhill being careful with
each step is rather exhausting as mom found out. We needed to take an hour
break at Starbucks in one of the old main piazzas so she could relax and
recover from our trek up to see Saint Anthony’s church and the Castle of Saint
George.
I also got to use the internet
(although I don’t love chain establishments when I’m traveling you must admit
they really come in handy for free wifi.)
St. Anthony is the patron saint of Lisbon and the church
erected in honor of him is old and made of simple, almost plain large stone
bricks. But it’s a really beautiful church with a dark interior but a more
ornate bronze embellished alter piece.
We had lunch a family owned restaurant, A Tasca da Se,
across the street from St. Anthony’s church. It had a sign that read “This is a
family restaurant.
Theresa, the owner's
wife, cooks in a home made style.
Do
come in and enjoy the new experience of tasting genuine Portuguese dishes in a
family atmosphere.”
Well Theresa is a
real asset to her husband because this women who is all of 4 feet can cook like
nobody’s business. She makes each dish to order and I had a local dish of
fried, fresh cod with homemade potato chips and fried onions and mom had
grilled chicken with the homemade potato chips and a garlic white wine sauce.
She said it was incredible and I know mine was certainly delicious. They also
brought out prosciutto and a Portuguese soft cheese with bread. They charge you
for it of course but it was so delicious it was worth eating and I had a small
salad and we shared a mineral water. The whole bill came to 27 Euros which was
incredible considering the amount of food and the quality as well as the
wonderful family atmosphere. When we arrived there was just one other table of
two and by the time we left the entire restaurant was filled and not a seat
left.
We saw several churches but one of the most memorable is the
Santa Luzia Church which is a Maltese church celebrating Saint Luzia who is,
from what I understood of the charming volunteer, Oratzio’s explanation and
blessing is she is the patron saint of eyesight. Here is some information form
the internet on the church. “The Santa Luzia Church is situated in a place of
great beauty and symbolism: the Santa Luzia viewpoint from where one has a
privileged view over the most typical old quarter of Lisboa: Alfama.
The origins of this Church date back to the
first years of Portuguese nationality, built in the 12th century, during the
reign of the first Portuguese king, D. Afonso Henriques, by the knights of the
Sovereign Military Order of Malta, and dedicated to São Brás, with defensive
features as it was situated next to the town walls, on the eastern side of the
town. The present building, built over the previous temple, dates from the 18th
century, with many alterations after the big destruction caused by the big 1755
earthquake and tsunami that destroyed a huge part of Lisboa. The temple is
characterized by its Latin cross plan and one-only nave, distributed by the
main chapel, the transept and the nave, ten sepulchres in shape of gravestone
and funerary monuments, classified as National Monument. Also quite interesting are the two glazed tile panels signed
in the historical Viúva Lamego ceramics factory, representing Lisboa with
scenes of the conquest from the Moors in 1147and another one illustrating the
Comércio Square before the big 1755 earthquake that forever changed the face of
Lisboa.
Oratzio kindly and so sweetly gave me a blessing and brought
me up to the alter to the statue of St. Luzia and placed my hand on the
container she holds with a pair of eyes carved in it.
I didn’t know this saint but it was so nice
to see such devotion from him and such genuine kindness. He had just a few
minutes before helped us place a ribbon with $10.00 tied in it around the Lady
of Fatima’s statue that stood to the left and in front of the alter. My aunt
Chicky had asked that we leave the money when we got to Fatima but the trip out
to the sacred grounds was too long and we wouldn’t have been able to see any of
Lisbon so when mom saw the statue she asked Oratzio if we could put the money
on her as an offering from my aunt and he so graciously did it for us as you
can see in the picture.
This may seem
strange to those who aren’t Catholics, particularly Italian Catholics, but each
town in Italy has a patron saint and a feast day when the statue of the saint
is brought out and people pin money to it as an offering and blessing.
My aunt’s family is from Sicily and they
celebrate her saint in a feast in the North End of Boston the same time each
year which takes place in the summer, I believe in August, but I’m not hundred
percent sure. But it is very common to want to pin or in this case place money
on to the saint so we were very happy to be able to do that for her as she’s
had a difficult year battling breast cancer but as I mentioned in my blog
yesterday she’s thankfully doing great.
Oratzio was also very kind to show me some pictures of Malta
which is a city mom and I visited 4 years ago on a different Costa cruise and
we both loved the country. You can tell how proud Oratzio is of his country and
this church and it was a pleasure speaking with him even if it was briefly and
before we left he gave us each a pencil with the Order of Malta (Ordem de
Malta) Portugal printed on it. The Order of Malta can be found in many places
throughout the world including Galway, Ireland. I remember walking to my class
two years ago when I was studying in Galway and seeing the little Order of
Malta building along one of the side streets.
So after leaving the church we head a few feet to a lookout
point below the Castle of St. George and took some pictures and bought two
small bracelets from an African gentlemen selling jewelry. He was very nice and
we couldn’t help ourselves but to buy something small.
We walked up the hill some more to reach close to the Castle
but we were getting tight for time so we headed down the steep hill through a
narrow passage with several groupings of stairs. The stairs were made from
marble and were well worn so it was a good thing we had a banister to hold on
to as you could easily sprain and ankle or worse but we both couldn’t help but
think of all the people who live here who make it up and down these hills and
stairs multiple times a day.
Both Mom and I were surprised to see that the city is modern
in dress and thinking. We both had imagined a very old world feel with elderly
women all dressed in black and more traditional clothing not to mention a much,
much smaller more intimate city. We couldn’t have been more off. The women, old
and young (with the exception of a small group of elderly women we saw in an
old residential neighborhood courtyard) are dressed fashionably and with real
style and flair and an air of sophisticated cosmopolitan living. The stores, restaurants and streets were
pretty packed considering how dire the financial state-of-affairs are in this
and countries in the South of Europe.
You wouldn’t guess there is a crisis but I think, like most people in
the world today people are going to make the best of their lives.
It’s also one of the cleanest cities, like Malaga and Cadiz,
and they do make it so pleasant for visitors and so easy to get around and
affordable.
There is also lots of
culture here with so many museums like the Modern Art, The Museum of the
Orient, the Museum of Coaches and even a museum dedicated to electricity which
is housed in a fabulously restored former power plant in a pristine red brick
building and interactive courtyard exhibition.
They also have the Museu do Fado which is a museum dedicated to Fado
music a traditional folk type music of Portugal. The bus tour had examples of
Fado music playing when there was no historical or factual information to
give.
The first think I thought of was
how sorrowful and soulful the songs were and how overwhelmed with emotion I
felt each time the music came on.
There
is such passion and despair in each song and you are entranced by the lyrics
and the rhythms you get lost in them.
As
beautiful as the music was I was happy when we got off the bus because I was so
effected by it that I just wanted to cry, it’s truly that powerful.
There is a park, the ‘Jardin Amalia
Rodriques’ that sits high up in the center of town above San Sebastiao square
and the Parque Eduardo VII.
Amalia is
one of the most famous Lisbon/Portuguese Fado singers.
Mom has two water color paintings she’s had for years and
years both of Lisbon and one depicts a church with what she thinks is two
towers but we couldn’t decide which one it was so I took pictures of several
churches so she can compare when she gets home with the original works. One is St. Anthony’s, another is I think the
church of Madalena and the other I’m just not sure.
I also got pictures of the ‘Tower of Belem,’ the ‘Monestary
of Jeronimos’ (Vasco de Gama is buried,) the ‘Padrao dos Descobrimentos’which I
believe reflects Columbus or Vasco de Gama’s expeditions to America and India
respectively. I also got a picture of a
metal tower in and ornate, I presume Barouqe style that holds an elevator
taking you from the street level to the walkway above where you cross over to
visit the Carmo Convent, (Portuguese: Convento da Ordem do Carmo) is a
historical building in Lisbon, Portugal. The mediaeval convent was ruined in
the 1755 Lisbon Earthquake, and the ruins of its Gothic church (the Carmo
Church or Igreja do Carmo) are the main trace of the great earthquake still
visible in the city. The Carmo Convent
is located in the Chiado neighbourhood, on a hill overlooking the Rossio square
and facing the Lisbon Castle hill. It is located in front of a quiet square
(Carmo Square), very close to the Santa Justa Lift (the ornate elevator in the
picture.)
Nowadays the ruined Carmo Church is used as an
archaeological museum (the Museu Arqueológico do Carmo or Carmo Archaeological
Museum).at the top of the hill. It’s an interesting idea and a new concept when
it was built years ago since they have several funiculars near there taking
tourists and locals easily up the hill the architects must have wanted to make
sure his design stood out. There is just so much to see, I could go on listing
all we saw but better for me to just say this is a city well worth exploring
and a wonderful place to get lost in the old and new worlds that blend so
seamlessly here. Do note though that it
was and apparently is a cold place in fall and winter so if you are like me and
thought this would be more tropical or at least more like Florida’s weather
you’d be wrong. It’s sunny but expect to wear jackets at the least this time of
year although there were plenty of tourists like me dressed in their
spring/summer attire. I really should have done a bit of weather research
before arriving but I survived and feel just fine as I write this, so hopefully
no ill effects from running around a bit chilled to the bone most of the time.
Tower of Belem history - Built in 1515 as a fortress to
guard the entrance to Lisbon's harbor, the Belem Tower was the starting point
for many of the voyages of discovery, and for the sailors it was the last sight
of their homeland. It is a monument to Portugal's Age of Discovery, often
serving as a symbol of the country, and UNESCO has listed it as a World
Heritage monument. Built in the Manueline style, it incorporates many stonework
motifs of the Discoveries, sculptures depicting historical figures such as St.
Vincent and an exotic rhinoceros that inspired Dürer's drawing of the beast. The
architect, Francisco de Arruda, had previously worked on Portuguese
fortifications in Morocco, so there are also Moorish-style watchtowers and other
Moorish influences. Facing the river are arcaded windows, delicate
Venetian-style loggias, and a statue of Our Lady of Safe Homecoming, a symbol
of protection for sailors on their voyages.
We got back to the ship around 5:15pm after taking a long 45
minute walk from town. Mom was pooped so she took a nap and I went to the
sauna/Turkish steam room to warm up and relax.
I got some great pictures as we left port and headed back
the way we came. We also passed, right
before the bridge, another cruise ship, this one called the “Aida” and much
smaller who sounded their horn 3 times to say “hello” and we in response sounded
ours 3 times. Then they said a short horn blast “bye” and we, a bit louder
though, did the same. So friendly on the high seas!!!
After dinner with Elizabeth and Lily we headed up to the 5th
floor deck and came across mass going on in one of the night clubs off the
elevator. Both mom and I thought it was
Friday today so big shock when we realized it was Saturday. We went to mass
although it was already at the point of the priest’s homely which was about
understanding what we need versus what we want. The mass was in Italian but mom
translated for me afterwards. It was
actually a very nice service and the priest was incredibly friendly and
personable and they do have a collection like any other Catholic church but
these proceeds go to help seamen around the world with their spiritual needs.
After mass I started the blog and mom read a mystery she got
in the ships library set in San Francisco and in English of course and then we
headed to the theatre for this evening’s show which was a musical/dance/general
talent show by crew members. I have to say they were good. The Italian woman
singer was fantastic and there was a young man who reminded me of my friend
Paul who broke us up in to groups and had us either clap twice or five times
depending on where you sat but as you can imagine trying to get 300 or 400
people to do what you want when you want it is not easy. He had the whole
audience in hysterics with his exaggerated exasperation and sometimes a little
off color Italian hand gestures. Italians are such an expressive group with
their hands and so much is said without uttering a syllable. I loved the song from “Rent,” “Seasons of
Love” which was a recorded version of the song but with a group of crew members
all dressed in black except for white short gloves and they danced with just a
blue light so all you could see was their glowing hands. Twice the spelled out
love with their hands and it was so well done and perfectly synchronized.
Talent shows like this can sometimes be so campy but this was very well done
and a pleasure to watch. The show ended
with a rendition of ‘We are the World’ and the kids who have been going to the
kiddy camp on board got on stage wearing colorful tee-shirts they had made in
one of their art sessions and waved equally colorful handmade pompoms. It was
very sweet and moving actually and a perfect way to end the evening.
So now I am finishing the blog in the room and then off to
bed to read a bit and tomorrow we have our last day at sea. I’m looking forward
to just playing on board and taking a short break from all the beauty, history
and culture that has made the last few days so memorable.
Brief History of Lisbon from the Costa Port information
provided:
Lisbon, capital of Portugal, is one of the most charming
cities in Europe. Rich in examples of
the 16th Century Portuguese Manueline architectural style, with
numerous museums and charming buildings, the cit sits on seven low hills at the
estuary of the Tagus river where it meets the internal, so-called Straw
sea. According to legend, Ulysses
founded Lisbon on one of his journeys described in the “Odyssey” while he was
returning to Ithaca. According to
historians, Lisbon was a Phoenician colony until 205B.C. when it became a Roman
province with the name of Felicitas Julia.
It was subsequently invaded b the Visigoths and by the Moors, who named
it Lischbuna and erected several buildings, forming the basis of the
present-day city. The Moors were eventually
chased out of Lisbon by Alfonso I, who made it his capital city, heralding a
period of growing power and influence through the 15th and 16th
centuries. But Lisbon’s progress came to
a tragic and dramatic halt on November 1, 1755 when the city was almost
destroyed by an earthquake, killing more than 40,000 people. A period of intense reconstruction followed,
led by the Marquis de Pombal, whose plans stayed as faithful as possible to the
original city design. Lisbon city centre
extends north-west from Praca de Dom Pedro IV, commonly know as Rossio, to the
neo-Manueline railway station. Ion the
other direction it extends to Praca de Comercia on Rua Augusta 1, an elegant 18th
Century quarter designed yb the Marquis of Pombal. This is political and administrative centre
of the city. The most elegant street in
Lisbon is Chaido, where baroque buildings and churches are found amid luxurious
shops. Notable structures of Lisbon
include the Sao Roque Cathedral, the country’s most important Christian
buildings. Designed by Filippo Terzi,
the cathedral was initially built in 1570, before further construction in 1755
after the earthquake. The interior
includes a number of baroque masterpieces, including, St. John Chapel. One of Portugal’s best know monuments is the
impressive Manuelien masterpiece, Belem Tower.
A merger of Romanesque and Gothic art with Renaissance and eastern
influences, the tower stands by the Tagus river at the point from which Vasco
de Gama left for the Indies. The city’s
Expo ’98 centre recently celebrated the 500th anniversary of Vasco
de Gama’s historic journey.
And a little bit of history relating to New York City. The Portuguese queen, Catherine of Braganza
who was credited for introducing the custom of drinking tea in Britain, a
custom that was already very popular among the Portuguese nobility also is
credited with being the inspiration for the name of the New York City borough
of Queens. She was Queen when Queens County, NY was established in 1683, alongside
Kings County which is now known as Brooklyn and has been since 1896.
“In the evening we will p;ass the lighthouse of Cape Saint
Vincent, in the early part of the next day we will cruise through the Gulf of
Cadiz, and by late morning we will be able to see the Moroccan coastline. After midday we will begin to transit the
Gibraltar Straights. At around 1:00pm we
will pass by the Tarifa, the narrowest point that separates Europe and Africa,
only 14 kilometers wide. At about 2:00pm
on the left had side we will be able to see the fortress of Gibraltar, soon after
we will enter into the Mediterranean Sea and continue on a North Easterly route
for the rest of the day, and by 10:00pm we will pass by the Cape of Gata after
which it will be possible to see the lights of the Spanish coast about 20 miles
away.”
We then had dinner and took some pictures with our table
mates Lily and her daughter Elizabeth as well as pictures with our wait staff
who have been so nice one from the Philippines and the other from India. I think just about every country is
represented in the staff on board which is so nice, it’s like a floating happy
United Nations. I got a picture as well of these two lovely Italian women who
sit near us and who have been so friendly. The women in the light pink dress
has been on 36 Costa cruises in her life and got to have dinner with the
Captain the night before.
