So it was time to say goodbye to the beautiful Karlovy Vary and although I was sad to leave I was also very excited to see someplace new, Mariánské Lázně. It's a smaller city than Karlovy Vary but also famous for it's water cures and spa treatments. The water here, unlike Karlovy Vary, is cold and mainly treats ailments of the kidney and liver but also helps with other complaints like circulation and low iron.
I'd heard lots about the place and thought it would be fun for a few days After breakfast this morning I went for a long two hour walk around Karlovy Vary to say my goodbyes and just to enjoy a last look around. I took lots of pictures of the Mill Colonnade with it's impressive columns and stone reliefs throughout the inside.
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
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| Mill Colonnade |
I also made a quick stop at the library where I returned my two Sherlock Holmes books and gave them of my own I'd been carrying around but no longer needed since I'd finished it long ago
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| Library |
I visited the Thermal Hotel Japanese Rock Garden again and then around Post Office square and then back to the hotel stopping often to have a little water here and there from different spouts. I'm sure I'll have an interesting night or more likely a very interesting morning in the bathroom tomorrow with all the CO2 I've ingested.
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Old Post office from 1904 with 4 sculptures on the top floor representing communication/transportation telegraph, rail transport, ship transport and mail
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Near my hotel there is the Czech pub restaurant, Restaurace U Švejka (Good Soldier Švejka Restaurant.) I didn't eat there this visit but had the first night I arrived in Karlovy Vary four years ago. Why I mention it now is because I took a picture of the life-size doll that sits outside the restaurant in wheelchair and at a table with several chairs. The image of he Good Soldier Švejk can be seen throughout the Czech Republic and there are many, many restaurants/pubs referencing this Czech literary icon. "Good Soldier Švejka also spelled Schweik or Schwejk, is
the abbreviated title of a unfinished satirical/dark comedy novel by Jaroslav
Hašek. It was illustrated by Josef Lada and recently also by Petr Urban. The
original Czech title of the work is Osudy dobrého vojáka Švejka za světové
války, literally The Fateful Adventures of the Good Soldier Švejk During the
World War. He has become the Czech national personification. Hašek originally
intended Švejk to cover a total of six volumes, but had completed only three
(and started on the fourth) upon his death from heart failure on January 3,
1923. The novel is set during World War I in Austria-Hungary, a multi-ethnic
empire full of long-standing tensions. Fifteen million people died in the War,
one million of them Austro-Hungarian soldiers of whom around 140,000 were
Czechs. Jaroslav Hašek participated in this conflict and examined it in The
Good Soldier Švejk. Many of the situations and characters seem to have been
inspired, at least in part, by Hašek's service in the 91st Infantry Regiment of
the Austro-Hungarian Army. The novel also deals with broader anti-war themes:
essentially a series of absurdly comic episodes, it explores both the
pointlessness and futility of conflict in general and of military discipline,
Austrian military discipline, in particular. Many of its characters, especially
the Czechs, are participating in a conflict they do not understand on behalf of
a country to which they have no loyalty. The character of Josef Švejk is a
development of this theme. Through possibly-feigned idiocy or incompetence he
repeatedly manages to frustrate military authority and expose its stupidity in
a form of passive resistance: the reader is left unclear, however, as to
whether Švejk is genuinely incompetent, or acting quite deliberately with dumb
insolence. These absurd events reach a climax when Švejk, wearing a Russian
uniform, is mistakenly taken prisoner by his own troops. In addition to
satirising Habsburg authority, Hašek repeatedly sets out corruption and hypocrisy
attributed to priests of the Catholic Church."
And then next to the restaurant and something I hadn't noticed until today is the Beer Spa. I had seen posters for it around but didn't realize it was right next door. It's not someplace I'd necessarily want to visit but if you like beer you can take a bath in it and then rest on a barley bed and enjoy your favorite brew. Although having just looked it up online I maybe should have tired it since it's good for boosting metabolism. Here is how it's billed online "Indulge yourself at the genuine BEER SPA and drink as much
beer as you want! THE FIRST KARLOVY VARY BEER SPA® offers a unique spa
procedure that is based on the use of exclusively natural raw materials and
ingredients, as well as traditional old-Bohemian healing practices. THE BEER BATH takes place in hand-made, 1000 litre whirlpool
tubs made of Royal Oak and it incorporates natural extracts, from which
Krušovice® beer is brewed, i.e. brewing yeast, selected varieties of hop, and
malt grist. The high content of hop essential oils contributes to purging the
skin pores and to revitalizing the whole body, while the brewing yeast, with
its high content of vitamin B and active enzymes, has a soothing and regenerating
effect on the skin. Thanks to this one of a kind combination of natural
ingredients with the magical effects of the royal oak, which has been a symbol
of longevity and endurance since time immemorial, the bath procedure boosts
your metabolism, washes out harmful substances from your body, relaxes internal
and external tension, fatigue, as well as stress, thereby offering you moments
of absolute mental and physical relaxation."
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| Mary Magdalene Church |
I took the number 2 public bus to the train station and then off I was to Mariánské Lázně which is only 16 miles from Karlovy Vary and the train goes directly there. It only took an hour and half and it went past such spectacular little towns and countryside villages. And although most of the snow is gone from Karlovy Vary much of the outlying areas are still blanketed with it. And only 10 minutes outside the city we passed what I am sure is a golf course and with the snow cover it was magical and only some bright sunshine could have made it look more beautiful.
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| Sculpture in the Spring Mill |
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| My drinking cure spring |
I arrived in Mariánské Lázně about 2:20pm and took the public bus number 5 to the city center, only a 7 or 8 minute ride an then, because there is no bus going directly to my hotel I walked the 10 minutes up hill pushing my suitcase. But after 3 weeks of the wonderful Karlovy Vary weight loss program I actually had little trouble getting there. The Hotel Villa Gloria is really lovely and situated in between about 10 other villa hotels just up the hill from the city theatre. It was such an amazing deal, only $29.00 US a night including breakfast so I don't mind having to walk a bit to get there. And it's really a nice room with high ceilings and a nice comfortable bed, newly renovated bathroom and a lovely balcony.
Mariánské Lázně is totally different from Karlovy Vary in just about every way. Firstly it seems that the local Czech people live right here in the main city area and then the city is mostly residential with the majority of hotels and spas all situated around this large, beautiful park in the center of town. Also the architecture is very different and although pretty not as fairy-tail like. there is one main colonnade where you get your drinking cures and I stopped there with my elephant cup and had my first taste of the local fare. It's again very different because there is a large desk, like a reception desk at a hotel when you walk in the circular room and behind the desk there are several attendants that will help you with what water to drink and also they have these little cubbyholes where you can pay to store your cup and that way you don't have to carry it around with you. I'm used to carrying it so I'll just keep mine on me but I can see why many people would take advantage of the storage option.
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| View from outside my hotel door |
As for the water, it's horrible, horrendous and simply horrifying to drink. I will do it because I know it's good for me but really it's indescribable the offensive assault on my taste buds.
I got lunch right afterwards in small cafe and this very sweet elderly women originally from Russian started talking to me from two tables away. She was with her son, daughter-in-law and grandson who was probably about 30 years old. When she heard me speaking English to the waitress she wanted to know where I was from and what I was doing here. I was happy to answer her questions and her grandson who lives in Munich translated what she didn't understand. People are so friendly and I do think it's unusual for people who have been coming here for years like them to hear someone speaking English or at least English without a German accent.
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| Close-up of stained glass window on building next to my hotel |
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| Close-up of stained glass window on building next to my hotel |
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| Olympia Hotel where my spa was |
I then walked along the Colonnade to the beautiful park and across to the Nove Lazne Hotel where they have a Roman Bath that is open to the public during parts of the day. I registered with the clerk and got 2 and half hours of time in the spa. It's pretty reasonable and very much like the public spa we went to in Budapest, Hungry a few years ago although that spa is so enormous and has many outdoor pools which this one doesn't. Now I was particularly interested in going there because it's where they filmed the spa scenes in "Last Holiday" and it looked so beautiful on film. Well it's just as beautiful in person and they have two warm baths where you can float and paddle yourself about and then a larger therapy pool with strong massage jets, a whirlpool with two lounge areas where air is forced through tiny holes and bubbles surround you gloriously as you relax and a sauna/steam area that also has a cold shower area and a Knaipp's pool where you walk through very hot water then very cold water repeating the process 4 times.
I did all the areas once and then went back to the Roman baths which are so beautiful with gorgeous tiles and hand painted details on the ceiling. A nice Russian man started talking to me in Russian and yes, even after I explained I don't understand he continued speaking but I did manage to get a bit of what he was saying. He prefers Mariánské Lázně to Karlovy Vary and says the water with 7 or 8 minerals is better for you. He's from Moscow and is a pianist. He explained which sauna was best and we sat trying to communicate and only being half successful.
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| View of Bus number 2 |
And after a nice shower under the rain nozzle I dressed and off I went through town looking at all the couples and groups strolling around. It' wasn't very cold which was nice but there is still a lot of snow on the ground and although the moon wasn't shining there are so many old street lamps that the town center is simply radiant at night.
I walked to my hotel and am now ready to just relax. It's strange having to pack up and be on the move again. I was getting so used to my room at the Kucera Hotel and all the people I was seeing everyday that it almost felt like home. It's amazing how quickly you can get used to a place and situation. Well we must acclimate ourselves wherever we are or we'll just feel like a fish out of water all the time.
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| My Hotel |
So my weight loss program is over and although I will miss my treatments I am kind of glad to have a less rigid schedule. I do feel much, much healthier and thinner with some clothes feeling loose and baggy but the scale moved only a tiny bit down. It's so frustrating and I know from Weight Watchers it's not all about what the scale says it's about how you feel but let's all admit that darn number means something, something pretty important.
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| The interior design elements on the ceiling of my room at Hotel Kucera |
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| New ornate staircase installed just when I arrived 3 weeks ago to Hotel Kucera |
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The interior design elements on the ceiling of my room at Hotel Kucera a
nd the view I had each morning when I woke up |
I am truly blessed to have had a month in Karlovy Vary and will always treasure my memories and who knows maybe sometime in the future I'll find myself there again but for now I am so happy with the experience and just thrilled I had the opportunity to go back and I have over 750 pictures to remind me of all I saw and did.
Near my hotel there is the Czech pub restaurant, Restaurace U Švejka (Good Soldier Švejka Restaurant.) I didn't eat there this visit but had the first night I arrived in Karlovy Vary four years ago. Why I mention it now is because I took a picture of the life-size doll that sits outside the restaurant in wheelchair and at a table with several chairs. The image of he Good Soldier Švejk can be seen throughout the Czech Republic and there are many, many restaurants/pubs referencing this Czech literary icon. "Good Soldier Švejka also spelled Schweik or Schwejk, is
the abbreviated title of a unfinished satirical/dark comedy novel by Jaroslav
Hašek. It was illustrated by Josef Lada and recently also by Petr Urban. The
original Czech title of the work is Osudy dobrého vojáka Švejka za světové
války, literally The Fateful Adventures of the Good Soldier Švejk During the
World War. He has become the Czech national personification. Hašek originally
intended Švejk to cover a total of six volumes, but had completed only three
(and started on the fourth) upon his death from heart failure on January 3,
1923. The novel is set during World War I in Austria-Hungary, a multi-ethnic
empire full of long-standing tensions. Fifteen million people died in the War,
one million of them Austro-Hungarian soldiers of whom around 140,000 were
Czechs. Jaroslav Hašek participated in this conflict and examined it in The
Good Soldier Švejk. Many of the situations and characters seem to have been
inspired, at least in part, by Hašek's service in the 91st Infantry Regiment of
the Austro-Hungarian Army. The novel also deals with broader anti-war themes:
essentially a series of absurdly comic episodes, it explores both the
pointlessness and futility of conflict in general and of military discipline,
Austrian military discipline, in particular. Many of its characters, especially
the Czechs, are participating in a conflict they do not understand on behalf of
a country to which they have no loyalty. The character of Josef Švejk is a
development of this theme. Through possibly-feigned idiocy or incompetence he
repeatedly manages to frustrate military authority and expose its stupidity in
a form of passive resistance: the reader is left unclear, however, as to
whether Švejk is genuinely incompetent, or acting quite deliberately with dumb
insolence. These absurd events reach a climax when Švejk, wearing a Russian
uniform, is mistakenly taken prisoner by his own troops. In addition to
satirising Habsburg authority, Hašek repeatedly sets out corruption and hypocrisy
attributed to priests of the Catholic Church."
And then next to the restaurant and something I hadn't noticed until today is the Beer Spa. I had seen posters for it around but didn't realize it was right next door. It's not someplace I'd necessarily want to visit but if you like beer you can take a bath in it and then rest on a barley bed and enjoy your favorite brew. Although having just looked it up online I maybe should have tired it since it's good for boosting metabolism. Here is how it's billed online "Indulge yourself at the genuine BEER SPA and drink as much
beer as you want! THE FIRST KARLOVY VARY BEER SPA® offers a unique spa
procedure that is based on the use of exclusively natural raw materials and
ingredients, as well as traditional old-Bohemian healing practices. THE BEER BATH takes place in hand-made, 1000 litre whirlpool
tubs made of Royal Oak and it incorporates natural extracts, from which
Krušovice® beer is brewed, i.e. brewing yeast, selected varieties of hop, and
malt grist. The high content of hop essential oils contributes to purging the
skin pores and to revitalizing the whole body, while the brewing yeast, with
its high content of vitamin B and active enzymes, has a soothing and regenerating
effect on the skin. Thanks to this one of a kind combination of natural
ingredients with the magical effects of the royal oak, which has been a symbol
of longevity and endurance since time immemorial, the bath procedure boosts
your metabolism, washes out harmful substances from your body, relaxes internal
and external tension, fatigue, as well as stress, thereby offering you moments
of absolute mental and physical relaxation."
