Saturday, October 13, 2012

Nice Cote d'Azur - Day 2





Nice cote d’Azur is amazing in so many ways not the least being the Mediterranean. The water here is so perfectly green and then deep blue and so clean (with the exception of some careless litter bugs) and warm and so inviting.

I started my morning off with a mini quiche at the local patisserie the front desk attendant recommended. She actually recommended their pain au chocolate but I’m trying to stay away from chocolate filled breads no matter how good they look and thought quiche Lorraine was a better breakfast food anyway.
 
Then I headed for the waterfront and a long, long walk to the airport which is right at the end of the beach. It’s incredible; as you relax on the beach you watch the planes just as they take off. Anyway, I wanted to see how far it was and also see where arrivals was, etc. so I could meet mom tomorrow afternoon.  It took just under an hour to walk the whole way mostly along the beach and it’s a nice sized airport but pretty easy to get around and it should be too hard to find her when she gets through customs.  And then I found the bus we’ll need to take to get to Nice Ville train station to head to Italy. It was all very easy and hopefully so tomorrow.

I took advantage of the sun coming out since it was completely overcast when I started the walk to take my sweet time and stroll back partly by the beach and party by the main shopping street one block up.  I stopped for lunch at another patisserie, this time in the residential neighborhood and found so many people getting their bread for the weekend meals and that of course prompted me to get a mini fresh baguette.  I saw several people just eating theirs right out of the paper bag so I figured when in France…So I did the same and just enjoyed the bread all by itself, oh it was so fabulous with a crunchy crust. And since I was there and their lemon meringue tart was just calling my name I had to indulge a little more and besides I’d already walked over an hour and was looking at another hour on the way back so I total earned this, at least that’s what I told myself and it was so worth it!


The sun graced us later in the afternoon and I just couldn’t resist going swimming. There were plenty of people on the beach and in the water and figured even if I could just take a quick dip I’d be happy so I went back to the hotel, changed into my bathing suit, locked up my purse in the safe and with a few towels in hand, a hat, sunglasses, flip flops on and a camera I headed back to the beach which is a very short block and half walk from my hotel.

On the way, as I waited for the pedestrian light to turn green so I could cross, a very friendly French women asked if I was going to go for a swim. That started and very pleasant 10-15 minute talk as we walked across the main avenue and along the promenade.  She is now retired from having been a biologist in a research lab and moved to Nice because she said it is always sunny and much warmer than where she’s from. She has a son who lives in Geneva but who is working in Singapore at the moment and a daughter who lives in Paris with her grandchildren.  She said what she loves about Nice is that people are so friendly and jolly and love to talk to visitors whenever they can. She clearly loved using her English and I was happy to listen and talk. She was very kind as we were saying goodbye, she heading to meet friends, and me to the water for a deep, she said in French I was tres formidable and sympathique (tremendous and amiable in English) and then did the double kiss on each check and wished me a wonderful trip and then we parted ways. It’s so funny how you can meet someone just waiting to cross the street who can just brighten up your day. If only everyone in the world realized how easy it is to make someone smile I’m sure they’d do it much more often and we’d have far few problems in the world.

So I found a place on the beach which in Nice is completely covered in rocks, pebbles and stones. I thought it would be so uncomfortable to lie down on but it’s really not bad at all and oddly relaxing. You lay down your towel and just stretch out and enjoy the sun and sea air and there were certainly plenty of people doing that today.  There were two couples next to where I put my towel and stuff figuring it was safe to be near them because they’d see if someone where near my things while I took a dip in the water. The water was not exactly warm but certainly far from cold and I actually stayed in for about 40 minutes it was so nice to be swimming and there were several people out with me which was great. It was surprisingly comfortable even for that long a period of time and considering it’s almost the middle of October that’s pretty amazing.  I very nice couple took a picture of me in the water; you can see my head near the shore line. Interestingly the water is deceptive as to depth because you think since it’s so clear that it’s rather shallow but once you make it past the larger stones it goes to about 5 feet and then quickly you can’t touch the ground. So you do need to be comfortable in the water above your head which I am so it wasn’t a problem for me.




 I got a few shots of some kayakers out  for the afternoon. I would imagine it must be hard work to navigate around the waves, their arms must be exhausted by the end of the day.

I relaxed on the beach afterwards and was perfectly warm with the sun beating down and I watched the older couples next to me that had multiplied in numbers to around 6 couples now and I loved watching them greet each other with the double check kiss and all kinds of cheerful banter back and forth. It’s a very happy town and no wonder if you get sun every day and the water is so warm and you can spend an October Saturday just hanging out on the beach with friends.  It’s all very civilized here and although it sounds like this isn’t real life that’s not true before I got to the beach and while I was on my walk back from the airport I saw everyone doing the same stuff we all do on the weekend; grocery shopping, laundry and general errands. Life is exactly the same everywhere you are when it comes to the basics it’s what you do with your time after the essentials are complete and these people get out and enjoy their natural surroundings.


After a nice shower I went out for a walk and went to 6pm mass at St. Pierre d'arène church down the street from my hotel. And only just a week ago they apparently had the benediction of the animals on October 7 in the church and from what I could find online people bring all kinds of animals even donkey’s. I wish I had seen the profession to the alter it must be incredible to watch all these animals parade down to be blessed. It’s a fairly large church with a lovely alter and lots of beautiful stained glass windows some in the traditional fashion but others in more modern designs.  I didn’t understand much of the service at all but it was very crowded and the priest seemed genuinely interested in having his homely message heard and was extremely animated in voice and movement.  After mass I stood as others left and just enjoyed the organ music and as I did that I saw this tall, older man with wild short hair and a long lightweight coat come up the isle and I just couldn’t help but smile at him he was the quintessential French poet. Of course I have no idea if he’s a poet but that’s exactly what you’d expect a French poet to look like. He clearly saw me smiling at him and he smiled back with this fabulous happy grin and at the same moment didn’t realize the elderly lady in front of him had made a sudden stop so he ran into her. All were fine and he may have even know her because they exchanged some pleasantries and a hug and I think even a check kiss and then he was off merrily on his way with what I detected was a little skip in his step.  In a city of generally merry people I think he would still take the prize as the merriest so maybe not a poet since they’re more known for being tortured souls. Maybe an artist of some type though, a painter perhaps if only he were wearing a beret.

Now it was time to go in search of dinner. I started walking and came to Messina Square which has a set of sculptures of kneeling people at least 20 feet up on metal poles.  I found this little blurb online and I guess I’d be one of the people who like them because they’re interesting and now that I understand they’re communicating with each other in the different colors it does make sense. “Some called them Buddhas, others prayers, some love them, others find them ugly. Nobody is indifferent to them! The seven resin statues on Massena square – Nice’s geographic centre – were created by Jaume Plensa, Spanish artist specialized in monumental art.

These seven characters represent seven continents and the communication between the different communities of today’s society. The name of this creation is “conversation à Nice”. Plus, the statues are illuminated every night, colors are changing smoothly to emulated a dialog between them, it’s very beautiful and poetic.”  And at the end of this row of sculptures is large fountain but I can’t find any reference to who the sculpture is of at its center. It really doesn’t matter, it’s beautiful and especially at night.

I found a small Italian take out restaurant on a side street and was so hungry by then I just got a piece of meat lasagna the young Italian man running the place had made as one of their specials for the day. It turned out to be delicious and still left room for a gelato which I ate as I walked along the promenade back to my hotel.


I passed a little theatre with a fairly long line of audience members waiting to get in. It looked just like an off-off Broadway theater in the Village and if I wasn’t so tired I would have considered seeing the show which looked, from the posters, to be a French contemporary farce.

I got back to the hotel and besides doing this blog and some basic computer work I’m ready for bed. All the sun, sea and fresh air has exhausted me but truly in the best possible way. I have my balcony door open and I look forward to a restful sleep in this happy, beautiful town.