Oh, I fall more in love with this city each day and I know
that the weather they are having, spring-like, is totally unusual but I’m just
so happy to be here.
History of the Josefov” “Josefov (also Jewish quarter;
German: Josefstadt) is a town quarter and the smallest cadastral area of
Prague, Czech Republic, formerly the Jewish ghetto of the town. It is
completely surrounded by Old Town. The quarter is often represented by the flag
of Prague's Jewish community, a yellow Magen David (Star of David) on a red
field. It dates back to the 13th century but its present appearance is mainly
the result of a vast redevelopment action undertaken between 1893 - 1913. Only
a few most significant buildings were saved, the living testimony of the
history of Prague Jews which lasted for many centuries. Yet these buildings
form the best present complex of Jewish historical monuments in the whole
Europe. Six synagogues remain from this old settlement which includes the
Jewish Town Hall and the Old Jewish Cemetery - the most remarkable in Europe.
Except the Old-New Synagogue they are part of the Jewish Museum.
Old-New Synagogue is the oldest preserved synagogue in the
Central Europe. It was built in the early gothic style in the late 13th century
and richly adorned by stonework. Also the inside furnishings (gothic
wrought-iron grill, wrought chandeliers) are of ancient origin. Up till now it
has served as a house of prayer and the main synagogue of the Prague Jewish
community.
Old Jewish Cemetery - Jewish Museum has been established in
the mid-15th century it served as a burial site till 1787. Among 12 000 gothic,
renaisance and baroque tombstones are also those of Rabbi Jehuda Löw (1609) and
Mordechai Maisel (1601).”
It’s wonderful to see there is a thriving Jewish community
and this is an important meeting place in the city.
“The Spanish Synagogue (Hebrew: בית הכנסת
הספרדי, Czech: Španělská
synagoga, German: Spanische Synagoge) is a Moorish Revival synagogue built in
Prague in 1868 to the design of Vojtěch Ignátz Ullmann. The facade copies the
form of the Leopoldstädter Tempel, built in Vienna, Austria, in 1853, a
tripartite facade with a tall central section flanked by lower wings on each
side. As in Vienna, the central section is topped by a pair of domed turrets. The
synagogue is most remarkable for the elaborate style of the interior, every
surface is covered by elaborate Islamic-style polychrome and gilded patterns,
some painted and some carved or molded.
During the Second World War, the Germans used the building
as a repository for property taken from the Jews. The building underwent a restoration
in the late 1990s. The building is owned by the Jewish Museum of Prague, and is
used as a museum and concert hall. Despite its name, the synagogue was never
used by a Spanish or Sephardic congregation: it was in fact an early Reform
temple. There are two theories to account for the synagogue's name. The Moorish
architectural style may have been found reminiscent of the Golden age of Jewish
culture in Spain. The synagogue was on the site of the city's most ancient
synagogue, which may originally have been used by Byzantine Jews. Some
awareness of this fact may have given rise to the legend of a historic
Sephardic community.”
Outside the Spanish Synagogue is a statue of Franz Kafa, the
famous Czech writer. It’s “The Franz Kafka Monument by artist Jaroslav Róna and
is located in the area where the Dušní Street and the Vězeňská Street connect,
between the Spanish Synagogue and the church of St. Spirit. It is a symbolic
place because the Kafka family lived at Dušní Street No. 27. The statue is
within the spiritual zone of three Churches – Jewish, Catholic and Protestant.
Franz Kafka practically lived his entire short life in this sad (in those days)
yet romantic part of the old Prague. The monument was inspired by an important
short story written by Kafka called "Popis Jednoho Zápasu"
(Description of a Match). The "split" design of the statue refers
back to the spiritual split of the writer mentioned in the novel. The novel
describes a situation in which a character defeats his opponent who is
supposedly dominant. The important part of the novel takes place at the Vltava
River waterfront. The statue is 375 centimeters tall and weighs 800 kilograms.”
Like me many of you will remember Kafka for the short story we all read in
college “The Metamorphosis” “(German: Die Verwandlung, also sometimes
translated The Transformation) is a novella by Franz Kafka, first published in
1915. It is often cited as one of the seminal works of fiction of the 20th
century and is widely studied in colleges and universities across the Western
world. The story begins with a traveling salesman, Gregor Samsa, waking to find
himself transformed into a monstrous vermin. It is never explained in the story
why Samsa transforms, nor did Kafka ever give an explanation.” It’s such
achingly sad story of being alienated and abandoned by his family and from what
I’ve read of his life his relationship with his parents, I think in particular
with his judgmental father prompted this very moving and frightening work.
I’ll skip ahead just a moment since we are talking about
Kafka. Later in the day I was back in Mala Strana (Lessor Town as you remember
from an earlier blog entry and right near the river and the Charles bridge.)
There is the Kafka museum there and although I didn’t go through the museum
there is an interesting sculpture in the courtyard I took a picture of. It’s of
two men peeing. I looked it up when I got in tonight and found a great article by
Jeffrey Fleishman of LA Times about the piece so here it is “SCULPTURE BY DAVID
ČERNÝ, BRONZE, 2004(?) Cerny’s …project is a sculpture of two bronze naked men.
They have swivel hips and, facing each other, they urinate into a pool shaped
like the Czech map, writing famous Czech sayings in the water. One is by Kafka:
‘Prague is beautiful but it has claws.’ “There’s a Czech idiom about ‘peeing
over somebody,’ which I guess translated into English would be to ‘get one over
on somebody.’ That’s what the peeing men mean. It’s the way our country
behaves,” he said. Cerny sat near the sculpture the other day. “Oh, it still
works,” he said. “You know there’s a computer underneath and you can send phone
text messages and the men will pee them……Yeah, I’m a prankster,” he said. “It would be nice at the
moment when I’m dying if I could say to myself, ‘You know, someone enjoyed
something I did.’ Why not?”
So back to Yosefov.
One of the most memorable places to visit in the Jewish district is The
Pinkas Synagogue and is one of the most moving places in the city. “It is now a
memorial dedicated to the Jewish victims of the Holocaust from Bohemia and
Moravia; their names are inscribed on the walls of the main nave and adjoining
areas. The interior of the synagogue comprises Memorial 77,297, which was
designed and executed by the painters Václav Boštík (b. 1913) and Jiří John
(1923-1972) between 1954 and 1959. The memorial was closed in 1968, however, since
the building was in an increasingly poor state of repair. After remaining
closed for a long time, the building was eventually reconstructed and,
following the collapse of the Communist regime, a project was launched to
renovate the memorial, which reopened in 1996. The text of the inscriptions was
compiled from card indexes, which were drawn up shortly after the war on the
basis of extant transport papers, registration lists and survivor's accounts.
The names of Holocaust victims, together with their dates of birth and death,
are inscribed on all the interior walls. Where the precise date of death is not
known - which is generally the case - the date of deportation to the ghettos
and extermination camps in the east is stated instead - this is usually the
last information we have on the victims. Their names are arranged according to
the towns and villages where they were living prior to deportation or arrest
and are presented in alphabetical order. The main nave features the names of
people whose last address prior to deportation was in Prague; the rest of the
interior space commemorates victims from towns and villages outside Prague. On
both sides of the Holy Ark (aron ha-kodesh) are recorded the names of some of
the ghettos and camps where Bohemian and Moravian Jews were deported and, in
most cases, exterminated. This memorial is a long epitaph commemorating the
names of those for whom a tombstone could not be erected.”
Next to the Pinkas Synagogue is the Old Jewish Cemetery which
most people who have seen pictures of Prague’s main attractions with have seen
a picture of this sacred place although the haphazard nature of the headstones
makes one wonder if there was vandalism. Although you find out on the tour or
when reading about it what went on. Here is a brief idea of it’s history. “It
was in use from the early 15th century (the oldest preserved tombstone, the one
of Avigdor Kara, dates back to 1439) until 1787. Its ancestor was a cemetery
called "The Jewish Garden", which was found in archaeological
excavations under the Vladislavova street, New Town. The numbers of grave
stones and numbers of people buried there are uncertain, because there are
layers of tombs. However, it has been estimated that there are approximately
12,000 tombstones presently visible, and there may be as many as 100,000
burials in all. The most notable personalities buried in the Old Jewish
Cemetery are Yehuda ben Bezalel known as the Maharal Rabbi Löw (d. 1609),
Mordechai Maisel (d. 1601), David Gans (d. 1613) and David Oppenheim(d. 1736). It
is not clear when exactly the cemetery was founded. This has been the subject
of discussion of many scholars. Some claim that the cemetery is over 1000 years
older than the accepted date, which is the first half of the 15th century. The
oldest grave belongs to the Prague rabbi and poet Avigdor Kara from 1439. It
was founded by the king Ottokar II of Bohemia. According to halakhah, Jews must
not destroy Jewish graves and in particular it is not allowed to remove the
tombstone. This meant that when the cemetery ran out of space and purchasing
extra land was impossible, more layers of soil were placed on the existing
graves, the old tombstones taken out and placed upon the new layer of soil.
This explains why the tombstones in the cemetery are placed so closely to each
other. This resulted in the cemetery having 12 layers of graves.”
And the “Jewish Ceremonial Hall (Obřadní síň in Czech) built
in 1911-12 under the direction of architect J. Gerstl for the Jewish Burial
Society (Hevrah Kaddishah) and is in the neo-Romanesque style. Originally used
as a ceremonial hall and mortuary it now forms part of The Jewish Museum of
Prague holding exhibitions relating to Jewish history.
“The classic narrative: The Golem of Prague. The most famous golem narrative involves Judah Loew ben Bezalel, the late 16th century chief rabbi of Prague, also known as the Maharal, who reportedly created a golem to defend the Prague ghetto from antisemitic attacks[8] and pogroms. Depending on the version of the legend, the Jews in Prague were to be either expelled or killed under the rule of Rudolf II, the Holy Roman Emperor. To protect the Jewish community, the rabbi constructed the Golem out of clay from the banks of the Vltava river, and brought it to life through rituals and Hebrew incantations. As this golem grew, it became increasingly violent, killing gentiles and spreading fear. A different story tells of a golem that fell in love, and when rejected, became the violent monster seen in most accounts. Some versions have the golem eventually turning on its creator or attacking other Jews. The Emperor begged Rabbi Loew to destroy the Golem, promising to stop the persecution of the Jews. To deactivate the Golem, the rabbi rubbed out the first letter of the word "emet" (truth or reality) from the creature's forehead leaving the Hebrew word "met", meaning dead. The Golem's body was stored in the attic genizah of the Old New Synagogue, where it would be restored to life again if needed. According to legend, the body of Rabbi Loew's Golem still lies in the synagogue's attic. Some versions of the tale state that the Golem was stolen from the genizah and entombed in a graveyard in Prague's Žižkov district, where the Žižkov Television Tower now stands. A recent legend tells of a Nazi agent ascending to the synagogue attic during World War II and trying to stab the Golem, but he died instead.[9] When the attic was renovated in 1883, no evidence of the Golem was found. A film crew who visited and filmed the attic in 1984 found no evidence either. The attic is not open to the general public.”
It’s really a must visit whenever you’re Prague and the
district is small so easy to walk it and I really recommend to anyone who
visits to do the complete tour, it’s not expensive and I’m so glad I did it the
last time we were here.
I walked over the Manesuv Bridge to Mala Strana where I just took in all the sights, sounds and smells. I stopped off at a new/used English book shop but only browsed as I didn't want to carry around any extra books on my walk today.
The name of the church "under the chain " has the
origin by the chain, which was sealed in Medieval age the monastery portal.” I’m
pretty sure mom and I went in here 5 years ago, it all looked so familiar and I
loved the Madonna and Child sculpture outside in a little alcove to the right,
above the main entrance and when you look back toward the street you see the
fortification wall and the Maltese Cross in several places.
In Mala Strana next to Kampa Island is the John Lennon Wall which interestingly as you can read below is continually changing and from pictures I saw online from 10 years ago it was a dramatically different vision but still interesting, vibrate and a huge attraction. "The Lennon Wall or John Lennon Wall, is a wall in Prague,
Czech Republic. Once a normal wall, since the 1980s it has been filled with
John Lennon-inspired graffiti and pieces of lyrics from Beatles songs. In 1988, the wall was a source of irritation for the
communist regime of Gustáv Husák. Young Czechs would write grievances on the
wall and in a report of the time this led to a clash between hundreds of
students and security police on the nearby Charles Bridge. The movement these
students followed was described ironically as "Lennonism" and Czech
authorities described these people variously as alcoholics, mentally deranged,
sociopathic, and agents of Western capitalism. The wall continuously undergoes
change and the original portrait of Lennon is long lost under layers of new
paint. Even when the wall was repainted by some authorities, on the second day
it was again full of poems and flowers. Today, the wall represents a symbol of
youth ideals such as love and peace. The wall is owned by the Knights of Malta,
who allowed the graffiti to continue on the wall, and is located at
Velkopřevorské náměstí (Grand Priory Square), Malá Strana."
In Mala Strana there is a gallery for famous Czech
photographer Joseph Sudek (1896-1976) in a reproduction of his home which was
destroyed in a fire. “Czechoslovakian, trained as a bookbinder (his younger
sister went into photography) but had a become a keen amateur photographer
before being called into military service in the First World War in 1915. He
produced several albums of pictures - including landscapes showing splintered
trees and other war damage - during his almost three years of war service,
which ended when he was wounded by artillery fire from his own side during an
attack, resulting in the loss of his right arm. Sudek's pictures often play on
the lower tones of the photographic scale, full of mystery and darkness. He was
not afraid to produce prints with a very limited tonal scale. His small,
unorthodox and intensely personal pictures were often dismissed by photographic
critics attuned as they were to the kind of full-scale print we associate with
the work of Ansel Adams and the American 'straight photography' tradition. His
work has an earthy and elemental quality; it is intense and dramatic, full of
emotion.”
I stopped off for about 20 minutes to sit and enjoy a quick
snack at a French café across the street from the gallery building which really
is in the back of two buildings in a small courtyard, you have to be buzzed in
and he does have a little lawn outside. You can see from my photos that the
small dark brown building enclosed by a metal fence is nestled among several
tall buildings including one behind with an interesting spiral staircase. There
was also a little dark brown kitty who at first I thought might be hungry but
then I looked behind the studio and there were clearly its parents and several
bowels with food that they hadn’t yet eaten as they just relaxed in the now
rather warm temperatures.
I didn’t know about the cross and stars so I’ll have to rub
it when I’m on the bridge next. And as you can see in my pictures not only is
there are the brass depiction of his being thrown over the bridge with a bright
shiny spot where millions of people have rubbed for luck but also on the other
side of the inscribed plaque in the middle of the two is another brass depiction
this one of the queen confessing and a solider with a dog in the forefront.
Apparently people weren’t sure which to rub or where so there is a bright
shinny spot on the dog as well. Funny that people thought the dog would be the
good luck and not the confessing queen. Either way I rubbed both and I’ll try
and go back and rub the cross. It’s all
very interesting the things we do as humans because other do it but it’s also
nice to be part of something people from all over the world have taken part and
mostly either think good thoughts or wish for something good for them and their
loved ones, a prayer really which is always a good thing.
I found along a side street near the bridge in Mala Strana a small church which I thought would be a normal rectangle design inside based on the facade but it's a lovely circular church, intimate and peaceful. "St. Joseph Church in Mala Strana. Built at the behest of
Carmelite sisters and completed in 1692, surprisingly not much is known about
this mysterious little church situated a stone's throw from the Charles Bridge
in charming Mala Strana, or Lesser Town. Experts are unable to agree on the
architect responsible for this little gem, which is rather unusual in Prague
where many famous architects have showcased their talent over the centuries.
Far more is known about the stunning art found at the church, including the
facade statues by the artist Matěj Václav Jäckel, who is also famous for his
contribution of several statues on nearby Charles Bridge, as well as numerous
decorative contributions to various sites in Český Krumlov, Kutná Hora, and
other places both in Prague and elsewhere across the Bohemian region. The nave
of the church is a rounded, slightly oval in shape, rotunda with a dome
supported by 12 pillars surmounted by beautiful capitals, which can come as a
surprise given the squared exterior shape of the church, and the side altars
are set into shallow recesses around the sides of the rotunda. The interior
boasts a main altar, an altar of St. Theresa of Avila, and an altar of St.
Thecla, the first female martyr of the Christian church, all dating from around
1695- 1699, the same time period as Jäckel's facade statues. The striking
picture of St. Theresa, as well the picture of the Holy Family above the main
altar are the work of Petr Brandl. Other notable side altars include the later
altars of St. Anne and of the Bohemian St. John of Nepomuk, which are by an
unknown artist from 1735. The gilded pulpit is from the end of the 18th
century. This intimate church is home to the francophone Roman Catholics in
Prague, as well as the Carmelite sisters who first built the church. Mass is
normally celebrated at 11:00 am on Sundays in French."
I had dinner at this great Czech restaurant near the public library that mom, Melody and I ate at the first trip here 5 years ago. We were looking for good Czech food and I remember we asked the guard outside the library if he could recommend a place and he kind of pointed us in the right direction and we were very happy. The owner is still the same and I was here 4 years ago as well and I think I had the same meal, pork cutlet with potatoes, yum! And in the picture above you can see the table next to the bar we sat in on our first visit. Nothing much has changed in 5 years.
I wish them a safe trip home and headed back to my hotel, a
whole 1 minute walk thrilled with the evening and having had a remarkable day
here including a musical theatre presentation, how can you beat that!!!
