Dubrovnik, Croatia - Day 3

Private home

Woke up to an overcast day but after breakfast I still went out just back to layers with rain coat, spring scarf and closed-toe shoes on.

I walked for a while in the area near my hotel and then to the marina for a bit and along with the many old building there is pretty, old building behind a large stone wall which it turns out, according to the front desk attendant at my hotel, is a private residence like a small castle and a friend of his used to rent a room there.

I took the bus to the old town walled city and first stopped at the Franciscan Monastery but before going into the museum I stopped to rub the top of Maskeron which comes with it a most interesting legend. This stone face, referred to as Maskeron, is attached to the outer wall of the Franciscan Monastery and just a few feet from the entrance. The Monastery was completely rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1667. At that time the Maskeron had a pipe protruding from its mouth for the drainage of rainwater from the rooftop. The pipe is long gone but the smooth surface of the head, maybe about two feet wide and only about 6 inches deep, comes with a legend that if you can stand on the small, very smooth marble surface, balance and take off your shirt and then put it back on again you will be granted a wish or in some articles I've read you will be sure to find your true love. When I got there two young girls were trying to climb it but with no success but apparently many try especially lots of young drunk college students. Well I didn't climb on his head for fear of falling off and breaking something and I certainly wasn't going to take my shirt off if I did somehow miraculously manage to balance on it so I settled for rubbing the top of his smooth head.

Maskeron

Franciscan Monastery Courtyard

I visited the museum for awhile which is small but well worth a visit if only to see the gorgeous columned courtyard with fully burgeoning grapefruit trees. A few ripe fruits had fallen on the ground but I thought it in poor taste to swipe fruit from a monastery even if nature had brought them to my easy grasp.

The museum also houses the display of a pharmacy which was established by the Friars in 1317. "The rule of the Franciscan order was to take care of the sick brethren. However this particular pharmacy was designed and founded as the public pharmacy, as well as for the needs of the monks, which is corroborated by the original location of the pharmacy being the monastery's ground floor. The establishment of the pharmacy provided a steady income to the order and solved their materialistic needs. Today the Friars Minor pharmacy is the third oldest functioning pharmacy in the entire world. Since 1938, when the idea of a pharmacy museum was realized in the Franciscan monastery, curios visitors may enjoy the wonderful exhibits from the history of this noble trade."

Then it was time for 12 noon mass at St. Blaise church. Interestingly, and you'll understand why I find it fascinating that they chose a Venetian architect to design the church, the present day church of St. Blasius was constructed by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli in in 1715 on the commission by the city authorities. The new Church of St Blasius was built in Baroque style according to the prototype of St. Mauritius church in Venice.

Facade St. Blaise Church

Main Walled City Gate with St. Blaise over the arch and also in the distance on the wall leading to another portal to the city

Wall of the city with a statue of St. Blaise

Interesting sculpture on the side of St. Blaise Church

"St. Blasius (Vlaho in Croatian and Blaise in English) has been revered in Dubrovnik as the patron saint for a long time. According legend in the year 971, on the night of 2nd to 3rd February Venetian ships anchored in front of Dubrovnik under pretense of taking up water and provision before proceeding further east. A priest named Stojko walked up to the church of St Stephen (Stjepan - Croatian) on Pustijerna (a part of the City) that night. He found that the doors of the church had been left wide open. In the church he stumbled upon a gray old man with a battalion of heavenly forces. The old man told him to warn the City council that the Venetians are planning to attack the City, and that he was pushing them away of the City for several nights now. When Stojko had asked him who he was, the old man replied that he was Vlaho (Blasius). Later Stojko had alarmed the City of the Venetian threat and as the Venetians saw that the doors of the City had been closed and that the walls were manned, they heaved up their anchors and abandoned their plans of the surprise attack on the City. Since that day St. Blasius became the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Through the centuries St Blasius presented an inspiration to the large number of artists who painted and sculptured his image. Hundreds of statues of St. Blasius can be found throughout the City. On every corner of Dubrovnik City walls you will notice a statue of St. Blasius, embedded in the walls, watchfully starring to the distance anticipating hostile intents, protecting the City on his watch."

Spring water well with about 12 spouts (not all working now) for tourists to refill their water bottles

For those who have had their throats blessed on February 3, you know that is the day the Catholic church honors the Saint and priest use two crossed candles and say a blessing. The reason for that is that he started off as a shoe maker but then seeing all the ills of the world went into healing both body and spiritual needs of his fellow man and..."In 316, Agricola, the governor of Cappadocia and of Lesser Armenia, having arrived in Sebastia at the order of the emperor Licinius to kill the Christians, arrested the bishop [who was St. Blaise]. As he was being led to prison, a mother set her only son, choking to death of a fish-bone, at his feet, and the child was cured straight away. Regardless, the governor, unable to make Blaise renounce his faith, beat him with a stick, ripped his flesh with iron combs, and beheaded him."

Mass today was packed with only standing room and even there in the back where I stood it was filled beyond normal capacity.

I had lunch right across the street at this charming restaurant and met the sweetest couples from the Netherlands. The wives, Tini and Shirly (her father named her after Shirley Maclaine who he loved so no it's not a Dutch name) were very funny and the whole group chatted loudly with me about the beauty of their country and their now 15 day bus tour with a popular Dutch travel company that has brought them here. Very funny people and entertaining so it was nice to have people to chat with on a restful Sunday in Dubrovnik.

Custom House Facade

The group from the Netherlands

I walked around a bit more and then headed back to the hotel and getting off a little bit away from my hotel so I could walk the promenade and stop at the supermarket. And who did I meet as I shopped for cheese and bread, yes, the Netherlands group who were shopping for water. They are staying at the sister hotel to mine which is directly across the street and I even watched them the other night when they arrived as I typed my blog in the lobby and they unloaded all their suitcases and their 48 passengers.

The lovely restaurant across form St. Blaise's church

Orange trees across from the Franciscan Monastery

Another beautiful house-lined, hillside street

Interesting gate leading to an equally interesting courtyard near the bus stop in town

Maine Street with lots of shops and restaurants

Sunset

It was a lovely day and ended with me typing in the lobby and seeing the Prime Mister of Croatia zip by in his limo and his security entourage who were at the Palace hotel down the street. And then the spectacular orange, pink and yellow sunset caused met to go up and get my camera from my room and in my flip flops and no jacket zip across the street to our sister hotel where they have a perfect view of the horizon and take a few shots of the setting sun.

It's a beautiful location even if it's a ways outside the city. And tomorrow I am on a guided tour to some of the nearby islands so that should be fun.