 |
| Pretty park near my hotel |
I was up early this morning and after another wonderful breakfast I checked out of the Grand Hotel Adriatic and moved across the street to the Hotel Istra. It just worked out better for the least expensive rooms to move around like this and it's fine because I get to try new places and although I don't have an ocean view this time the room is nice and the hotel, although old is right on the water.
 |
| Old gate leading to a huge vineyard right in the center of Pula |
 |
| Private Flower Garden next to a house in Pula |
After quickly checking in and dropping off my suitcase and such I was out the door and to the bus station to get a round trip bus ticket to Pula which as I wrote yesterday is largest city in the Istria country of Croatia.
It was a fairly quick 2 hour ride along the water and then through an incredible range of mountains and at one point we were traveling along the flat surface of one and that looked a little like what I imagine a planet like Mars to look like with large craggy rocks jutting up from the ground everywhere but unlike Iceland's similar terrain these were white with flecks of darker tones, I think they may have been limestone, but I'm not a geologist as you know so I'm really not sure. All I know is it was stunning and I was just so happy to be off that cliff road that lead down to the seaside. I just don't like to be that close to the side of a high cliff, it doesn't suit my personality or rather my fear of heights but for those not afflicted with that problem the ride would be glorious even with the intermittent rain and fog.
We arrived in the Pula bus terminal at about 1:45pm and I then quickly hopped on a public bus and was in the center of town in about 5 minutes. The town although large by square meter only has a small portion that is really meant for tourists so I wondered around and had a quick and yummy pasta fagioli-type Croatian soup at this cafeteria place near one of the main squares. It's actually I believe a dorm for the college students but they have a large portion of the first floor dedicated to passerby's and you just pick your dish and like any cafeteria you pay at the designated register and find any table and enjoy your, in this case anyway, home cooking.
 |
| I liked the color and design of these houses in the center of Pula |
I was off an walking and just exploring the city up and down small hills and around different residential neighborhoods and what struck me most was how many homes had gardens behind, in front or on the side of them. In some cases these gardens were rather large. This is a bustling city with lots of residential developments close together but somehow the city planners made sure people had green space for flower/veggie gardens. Very good planning in my opinion, it made the city layout unique and interesting.
 |
| Ancient Roman Arena in Pula |
 |
| Ancient Roman Arena in Pula |
The city has a major ship building port but I didn't go down there simply for time but enjoyed my visit and spent a good amount of time at their main tourist attraction the"
Pula Arena, an amphitheater and the only remaining Roman amphitheater to have four side towers and with all three Roman architectural orders entirely preserved. It was constructed in 27 BC - 68 AD and is among the six largest surviving Roman arenas in the World. A rare example among the 200 Roman surviving amphitheaters, it is also the best preserved ancient monument in Croatia. The amphitheater is depicted on the reverse of the Croatian 10 kuna banknote, issued in 1993, 1995, 2001 and 2004."
It's quite impressive and although there were other visitors it was nice to walk around without all the hundreds of people I imagine are here each day during the high season.
 |
| Ancient Roman Arena in Pula |
 |
| Ancient Roman Arena in Pula |
 |
| Ancient Roman Arena in Pula |
 |
| Ancient Roman Arena in Pula |
The Arena is just below and next to the Kościół św. Antoniego (St. Anthony church) which fortunately opened for visitors just before I finished my tour of the Arena. I think it was opened for parishioners
to go to confession as there was a line on the inside when I walked in but I was glad I had the opportunity to see it and take a few moments for quiet contemplation on this Holy Saturday. The beautiful and impressive mosaic of Jesus that fills the entire concave wall behind the alter.
Pula has a long history according to research I found online "Evidence of presence of Homo erectus at 1 million years ago have been found in the cave of Šandalja near Pula. Pottery from the Neolithic period (6000–2000 BC), indicating human settlement, have been found around Pula. In the Bronze Age (1800–1000 BC), a new type of settlement appeared in Istria, called 'gradine', or Hill-top fortificatations. Many late Bronze Age bone objects, such as tools for smoothing, for drilling, sewing needles, as well as bronze spiral pendants, have found in the area around Pula.
The foundation of the settlement based on archaeological evidence dates to ca. the 10th century BC. Greek pottery and a part of a statue of Apollo have been found, attesting to the presence of the Greek culture. Greek tradition attributed the foundation of Polai to the Colchians, mentioned in the context of the story of Jason and Medea, who had stolen the golden fleece. The Colchians, who had chased Jason into the northern Adriatic, were unable to catch him and ended up settling in a place they called Polai, signifying "city of refuge."
 |
| Ancient Roman Arena in Pula |
 |
| Ancient Roman Arena in Pula |
I got a last snack before getting on the public bus to the terminal and then waited for about 20 minutes before the bus back to Opatija arrived. The scenic drive was a little less stressful on the steep cliff road because I sat on the left side of the bus ensuring that most of the time I was looking up at the hill above me and that sort of made me a little less anxious.
 |
| St. Anthony's Church, Pula |
Once back in Opatija the rain was still pretty consistently coming down but it had warmed up and the city looked beautiful with all the lights. A young, sweet Japanese couple who were on the bus with me asked if I could direct them to their hotel and I was amazed at how easy it was to give directions in town I'd only just visited myself but I guess it being so small and the fact that there are several key landmarks that make directing people a bit easier helped and another American who saw me point to them on a map where to go stopped and kindly offered assistance as well. It's so funny how we Americans really do feel compelled, especially in a foreign country to help others, it's such a nice trait and something we should be proud of.
 |
| Roman Ruins in the center of Pula |
So back at my hotel now and in the lobby as they don't have in-room internet access and just waiting until it's time for the Easter Vigil mass at 10:30pm at the Church of the Annunciation which is only about a 10 minute walk in the center of town. They are suppose to have the traditional bonfire but I wonder with all this rain if that will be possible. We'll have to see and I'll update later.
Update: Well I was told the wrong church so when I got there I didn't see anyone so I figured with all the rain it was cancelled but this morning the front desk manager said it was at St. Jacobs instead. Well I'm sorry I missed it but will enjoy 11:00am Easter mass today.
