Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Karlovy Vary - Weight Loss Program - Day 17


View of the City Center from the Diana Lookout

View of the outer suburbs from the Diana Lookout
View of the City Center from the Diana Lookout

View of the City Center from the Diana Lookout

View of the suburbs from the Diana Lookout

View of the Mountains from Diana Lookout

View of the forest from Diana Lookout

View of the City Center from the Diana Lookout

Me, a bit anxious and holding on to nice Russian women to keep from freaking out due to fear of heights. 

Diana Look out with daughter holding elderly mothers arm as they climb the small hill from the funicular
What a wonderful day. It wasn't sunny but it was only about 40 degrees so that's great for the end of February and the snow is quickly melting which is good too so hopefully they'll have an early spring here.
Forest path near Diana Lookout with tiny fur tree just beginning to grow out of the snow covered earth (see bottom of picture)

Stone structure on path from Diana Lookout


Funicular from Diana Lookout to Grand Hotel Pupp
Funicular from Diana Lookout to Grand Hotel Pupp

Stone Cross on walking Path from Diana Lookout

 After a underwater massage, lymph-drainage and salt cave treatments I went for a walk and then decided to take the funicular up to the Diana Lookout. The funicular was closed for all of January and part of February so I figured it was a good day to take it up the mountain and then walk down. There was a very sweet older German couple with me and off we went up the mountain slow and steady and stopped in the middle for a few moments when we were side by side with the funicular coming down.

Once up at the look out I decided to take the elevator with the German couple to the top of the lookout and figured I would take a quick peek but with my fear of heights I figured I would last a few moments before having to head down. But fortunately when we got to the top there was a complete wooden balcony with high fully covered railings.  I was able to stay close to the inside wall and just point the camera out and got some good shots of the city and the surrounding wooded trails.  The German women has a fear of heights as well so we both stayed close to the inside and walked slowly around.  There was just one other couple up there, an older Russian couple all bundled up. I took a picture of them with the city in the background and then they offered to take a picture of me so I agreed but held on to the women for dear life. She offered to have her husband take a picture of me alone but I graciously declined. She had no idea I was only able to stand there because I had a strong grip on her.

As I left the tower and headed toward the walking path I saw a women with her young daughter and elderly mother who was walking slowly with a cane and clearly, from the pained expression on her face, wondering why her daughter had forced her to come up this hill even if the majority of the distance was covered by a mechanical wonder. All I could think as I watched her move slowly up the tiny slope that lead to the tower entrance was if this was my mother she'd be saying to me over and over again "This is elder abuse!"

I then took a nice walk down hill and enjoyed the breeze and the still thick snow drifts. As I got closer to the bottom there was less and less snow and all the fall leaves that had fallen months ago where visible where the snow had melted. I figured by now that all the leaves would have turned to mush and mulch but I guess not. They were in pretty good condition, I guess the snow worked as a preservative.

I passed a obelisk, an old stone cross and a stone structure created in the middle of some trees.
Hotel Pavlov


Ivan Petrovich Pavlov the famous Russian  1904 Nobel Prize winner for Physiology or Medicine (1849 – 1936) best known for his "conditioned reflex" (Pavlov’s dogs) which of course was his examination of the rates of salivation's among dog. When he ran a bell in subsequent time with food being presented to the dog in consecutive sequences, the dog would initially salivate when the food was presented came to Karlovy Vary in 1927. The dog later come to associate the ringing of the bell with the presentation of the food and salivate upon the ringing of the bell. What I didn't know was that they actually stuffed some of his test dogs and have them displayed in a museum in Russia. They have a street named after him here and the hotel Pavlov is perfectly located across from the Park Colonnade.
Japanese Rock Garden , Thermal Hotel

Japanese Rock Garden , Thermal Hotel


Japanese Rock Garden , Thermal Hotel

Japanese Rock Garden , Thermal Hotel

Across from the main entrance of the Hotel Pavlov is the ugly Communist Era Thermal Hotel which I’ve included in previous blog entries. But today I took a little time to admire the sculptures in their attempt at a Japanese rock garden including a Yin and Yang representation made from a small canal swirl that leads to the river nearby.

I met a very sweet young Russian couple, only 21 years old and on vacation in Prague and just visiting Karlovy Vary for the day. We chatted briefly about their beautiful town (at least that’s what they say) Kazan which is considered the third Capitol of Russia.

Becher Villa (picture not taken by me)
Staircase with Stained Glass Window in Becher Villa
Yesterday I had stopped by the Galerie umění Karlovy Vary (art museum) in the Becher Villa. It’s the only other museum and the place where I had built my snow kitty sculptures on their high stone walls. I found out from a poster outside the villa that they had an art workshop which was schedule for 5:00pm tonight. It was only $4.00 US and it was focusing on textile art. It sounded fun and interesting and for such a small entrance fee it was definitely worth it. I made reservation yesterday and showed up at 4:30pm so I could spend a half hour going through the small gallery upstairs where there is an exhibit “International 2012 project from the KünstlerGilde Esslingen in Regensburg, Germany presents the small selection of paintings, photographs, objects, installations of almost 30 artists reflecting the manifestations of power in all its forms.” Here are just a few examples of the works presented.

Hansjürgen Gartner’s painting “Rating 2012” which oddly has a large picture of American actor, Ben Stiller from the poster for “Along Came Polly.” A red striped flag is painted over part of the picture of him.

Ingo Glass’ two sculptures “Hommage and Twins” created in 2011. I presume it is a reaction to the Twin Towers tragedies.

Jan Mestan’s “Pigments and Beeswax on Wood” (two works.)

 Reinhild Gerum’s “Iron Sheet Copper Wire.” I really love this piece and the wire sculpture inside is so fascinating in person, the picture doesn’t do the work justice.

Gisela G. "Collage 2009"



The museum is housed in this incredible 1914 Villa which was built by and was the home of Gustav Becher a prominent businessman of the family who created the Becherovka Liqueur company here in Karlovy Vary until his death in 1921. It was used for many purposes over the years including the “House of Pioneers and Youth” (a Communist leisure center for children and youth) from 1951-1987 when it was abandoned after Communist rule ended. It wasn’t until years later in 2011, after an extensive renovation that it was reopened as the current museum a multipurpose center for young artists with a focus on educational activities, exhibitions, art, representation and accommodation.
Villa in Karlovy Vary's Westend Neighborhood

Gathered around the materials table
The neighborhood where the museum is I've been referring in my blogs to as the "Villa District" but it turns out it has a real name the "Westend" which yes, is inspired by London's famous neighborhood of the same name and which was known as "residential area of rich men, noblemen and legislators consisting of palaces, parks, theaters, etc. The area was developed into what is seen today staring with major construction projects begun in the 1970's above Zamecky vrch (Castle Hill.)  Residential buildings were designed to increase the "aesthetic effect" of the spa town. The area bears the name "Westend" from 1895, i.e., the western par of town. It was also called this to emphasize the importance of the society who lived here. And in keeping with a main aspect of spa towns which is characterized by a special relationship with the environment, these detached residential homes had incorporated intricate landscaping and garden features that included architectural objects like pavilions arbors  bowers, various terraces, stairways ,etc. It's a small area but well worth walking along multiple times as there is always some new artistic element on one of the gorgeous villas that was missed the time before.

Choosing the right materials for the  perfect creation

Me working on my craft

Mira and other teacher with teenage artist

Mira watching an artist work



One of my fellow students fun disco rooster and chicken creations



Mira, Yerka, Merka and other teacher in pink
They have bi-monthly workshops for adults and last night they had one of the artists from the current “Power” exhibit do a lecture. But tonight’s works shop was all about a substance called “Powertex” which is a highly versatile product that makes most porous surfaces hard and weather resistant and gives form and structure to cloth, paper, wood, gauze, concrete, plush toys, cardboard and more. They opened the workshop with a lecture with a PowerPoint presentation on the material and how to use it (of course in Czech but they had a handout in English ready for me when I arrived.) We then went into the workshop room  where plastic sheets had been placed over the tables and a side table with lots of odds and ends of fabrics, string, wire, beads, etc. where displayed and ready for us to choose what we liked and create our own masterpiece. I obviously had to make something small since I was going to be packing it in my suitcase. I had picked up a beautiful stone near the Crucifix that is on the hill above the Grand Hotel Pupp today when I was heading on my walk and decided to use that in my creation. It turned out in the end, with the use of some gauze, the special putty they mixed for us and the Powertext paint, my stone, some tiny pearls, a redish ceramic bead and a metal heart, to be an abstract work resembling loosely to be a heart. I look forward to hanging this somewhere when I get home and be reminded of my lovely evening doing arts and crafts in a gorgeous villa in Karlovy Vary with about 15 other would be artists.
A very bad picture of my creation

The staff were incredible in particular an adorable 32 year old young man named Mira (short for a name in Russian I can't remember.) He is a talented painter (he was kind enough after I finished my work to show me pictures of his paintings that he had online.) We had such a nice chat about art, life in Karlovy Vary, the aversion many Czech people have to Russian visitors, the state of religion here in Karlovy Vary and various other interesting topics including butterflies and how his 82 year old grandmother lives with him and the fact that it traditional for Czech families to keep their elderly at home with them. The two young ladies who organized tonight’s presentation were very sweet and helpful and everyone really seemed to enjoy themselves.

After saying bye to Mira and his colleagues I walked with a young man, Yerka and his mom, Menka who he had convinced to come to the workshop with him when his friends back out. He said she was resistant to the idea but she actually made a wonderful dancing doll with a frilly dress and took such care when putting it together. As we walked to the center of town (first stopping at where my snow kitties had been and collecting the tiny stones I'd used for the eyes in noses - I collect small stones from all the places I travel so these will be a fun reminder) together he told me all about life in Karlovy Vary as his English was superb and he would translate what his mother would say about life in Communist Czech. He said that the night they invaded in 1968 the Czech people were clearly upset but on the radio they were all told to just stay calm and go to work the next day like nothing had happened. Yerka said that last week they were replaying the tapes from that night on the radio and how incredible it was for him to hear them telling everyone to just comply with the Russians and not to put up a fight and that the Czech Army would not be called to defend the nation (because of the potential loss of life and because the government new that they weren’t strong enough to fight back.) Yerka wasn’t born yet when it happened but he was 6 years old when it ended in 1989 and he remembers going to school the next week after the Velvet Revolution and not having to call his teachers by “comrade” anymore which described to me with a big smile on his face. I asked if he remembered being happy and he said “everyone was so happy.” It was such a fascinating conversation and when I asked his mom what was best for her, Yerka, replied that she didn’t have to make the kids clothes anymore and that was a good thing because she had to work full-time and take care of the house and on top of that had to make all their clothes to the specific requirements of the government. He also explained how on that day in 1968 after the invasion and having to comply with the no fighting back policy the locals would do things to annoy the Russians like change the street signs so they would get lost.
Relief that hangs over Spring #2 of King Charles IV discovering the first termal spring when his dog fell into the water.


It’s fascinating to hear directly from people who lived through it what it was like and how life is different now and Yerka said that the Czech Republic is coming along but are much farther behind many EU countries who never were under Communist rule.

Metropol building taken from walk down from Diana Lookout
The topic of Russia had come up during my conversation with Mira as well who expressed his and what seems to be many Czech people’s concerns about having so many Russian guests here. There is still a lot of animosity toward the Russian people and I suppose with the history it will be many, many decades before it will truly subside and that is understandable. Mira was also telling me in relation to life in the Czech Republic that in some ways it’s become so much more Westernized that it is unfortunate because people spend so much time out shopping and working and away from their families where as when everything was regulated (not that he wants that of course) but it forced people to stay home and be with their families. I explained how when I was growing up there were Blue Laws and Sundays were meant for family and there was no going to shopping malls or movies which really is a good thing at least when it comes to truly having a day to rest.

"Disks of Newton" by František Kupka
So I parted with Yerka and his mom and went to my hotel while they headed to their car. It really was a great experience and I am continually meeting wonderful Czech people and enjoying incredible conversations. And one last note on that, I met the Director of the Museum who was working late installing a new children’s exhibit that opens tomorrow, a very distinguished man in his 50’s who ended up chatting with me for a while about art and František Kupka (September 23, 1871 – June 24, 1957) (also known as Frank Kupka or François Kupka)who was a Czech painter and graphic artist and who the Director compared to one of my favorite artists Wassily Kandinsky. Kupka was a pioneer and co-founder of the early phases of the abstract art movement and Orphic cubism (Orphism - a term coined by the French poet Guillaume Apollinaire in 1912, was an offshoot of Cubism that focused on pure abstraction and bright colors). Kupka's abstract works arose from a base of realism, but later evolved into pure abstract art.

So I learned a lot about art and Czech life tonight as well!